After the Fireworks, Walking to Noryangjin for Gizzard Shad
First Saturday of October two years back, 11 p.m., after the Seoul International Fireworks Festival ended. Hundreds of thousands still packed the riverside parks. I walked from Banpo Bridge to Noryangjin — 25 minutes, nobody else on the path. Skipping taxi and subway turned out to be the smart call.
On the second floor of Noryangjin Fish Market I ordered a KRW 30,000 gizzard-shad sashimi and grilled set. First jeon-eo of the year for me. The next morning the hotel window still held half-burned ash and a black sky in view. Autumn in Seoul packs festivals, foliage, and seasonal seafood into a six-week stretch from late September to mid-November.
September–November Weather & Packing
| Month | Avg High | Avg Low | Rain Days | Notes | | --- | --- | --- | --- | --- | | September | 26°C | 17°C | 8 | Early autumn, residual typhoons | | October | 20°C | 10°C | 5 | Foliage begins, clear skies | | November | 12°C | 3°C | 6 | Foliage peaks and drops, first frost |
- September: long-sleeve shirt + cardigan
- October: trench or light jacket with a knit layer
- November: proper coat, scarf, gloves late in the month
- Day/night swing of 10–12°C is routine — always carry a layer
Autumn Food & Where to Eat
Jeon-eo / gizzard shad (Sept–Oct) — second floor of Noryangjin Fish Market. Lines 1 and 9 Noryangjin Station, Exit 6, 5 min walk. Prices vary widely by stall. Buy sashimi at the first-floor counters, then pay KRW 4,000–8,000 upstairs for table-setting (sangchareum).
Daeha / tiger prawn (Oct–Nov) — Noryangjin or Garak Market. Mid-October onward, stalls pile prawn, blue crab, and shrimp.
Chueo-tang / loach soup — Yonggungjang (Jongno 3-ga), Namdo Chueo-tang (Sinsa). Fall tonic, ~30-min weekday lunch wait.
Kimjang / winter-kimchi season (November) — Gwangjang and Tongin markets sell fresh winter kimchi. Hard to eat in a hotel room — the workaround is buying single-meal portions at local side-dish shops.
Noryangjin and Yeouido stay in the Yeouido area guide; Cheonggyecheon and Jongno in the Jongno guide. River-view pairings live in Han River View Hotels; for night-skyline focus, Rooftop & Skyline Hotels.
Autumn Festivals
Seoul International Fireworks Festival (first Saturday of October) — Yeouido and Banpo riverside parks. 1 million+ spectators. River-view rooms open bookings 10 months out. On-site mat placement starts 4–6 hours before showtime.
Seoul Lantern Festival (early Nov–early Dec) — Cheonggyecheon stream. Lines 1 and 2 City Hall, Exit 4, 5 min. Best viewing 6–10 p.m.
Itaewon Global Village Festival (mid-October) — Itaewon main street closes to cars. Line 6 Itaewon Station, Exits 2–4. Two-weekend run with international booths and performances.
Seoul Street Arts Festival (early October) — Free performances around Gwanghwamun Square and City Hall Plaza.
One-Day Sample Route (Fireworks Day)
11 a.m. Namsan foliage walk (Myeongdong Stn, Exit 1 → Namsan Cable Car). 1 p.m. lunch in Myeongdong. 2 p.m. check in or return to the hotel for 1–2 hours of rest. 4 p.m. claim a riverside spot. 7 p.m. fireworks start, 8 p.m. finale. 9 p.m. head to Noryangjin (Banpo to Noryangjin: 25 min walk or 15 min taxi). 10 p.m. gizzard shad. Midnight back to the room.
A river-view room is the least-strenuous way to watch fireworks day — it protects stamina and gives a reliable photo environment. On-site for memory, in-room for comfort.
Getting Around
- Incheon → Yeouido Airport bus 6030 direct, ~70 min (KRW 17,000)
- Incheon → Banpo Airport bus 6020 direct, ~65 min (KRW 17,000)
- Incheon → Noryangjin / Cheonggyecheon AREX to Seoul Station + Line 1, ~60 min (KRW 4,600)
- Fireworks day Yeouido and Banpo subway exits can be throttled with no-exit holds. Disembarking one or two stations early and walking is safer
Mid-October's foliage peak draws heavy weekend traffic. For hikes on Bukhansan or Naejangsan, start before dawn.
FAQ
Q. Seoul foliage peak? Namsan and Changgyeonggung: late October to early November. Bukhansan: mid- to late October. Deoksugung ginkgo road: second week of November.
Q. When to book fireworks-day river-view rooms? October to December of the prior year. Standard rates may survive into August; by September, only premium suites remain.
Q. Noryangjin gizzard shad prices? As of October 2025, KRW 30,000–50,000 per kg. Sashimi for one runs ~KRW 20,000; grilled-plus-sashimi set, KRW 30,000–40,000.
Q. Autumn typhoon risk? Peaks early to mid-September. Direct hits run 1–2 per year with ~48 hours of recovery after passage.
Q. Is late November cold by Korean standards? Freezing nights begin. Late-November average low is ~3°C but feels closer to -3°C. Pack winter gear.